base weld on F17s

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base weld on F17s

Postby rondo320 » Mon Mar 03, 2014 6:06 pm

At the beginning of the season I started developing about a half inch gouge in the base of one of my Hart F17s along the edge.
I had it fixed with a base weld in December. It held for a while until the base around the weld started to deteriorate. A second base weld last week held for a few days and now the base around this latest fix is giving way.
I've tried drip P-tex throughout the season but that doesn't last more than a couple of hours.
Any suggestions other than permanent status as rock skis?
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Re: base weld on F17s

Postby mjskier » Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:54 pm

The only way a fix that wide is going to stick is if you epoxy it.
google "ptex epoxy", lots of discussion about it.
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Re: base weld on F17s

Postby getoffmylawn » Wed Mar 26, 2014 12:35 pm

When you say "along the edge" do you mean that one side of the gouge is directly against the metal edge? If so, if the edge is compressed or deformed I wouldn't get my hopes up for a complete repair. But if the edge is OK, and the gouge not too long, you can probably fix it with good quality (NOT CANDLE) ptex repair material over metal-grip. The repair will not be truly "permanent" -- since even the hardest repair material will abrade faster than a factory base -- but it will be easily touched up over the years. And it will last years,if not abused.

If the gouge is long enough to expose a lot of the inner surface of the edge epoxy probably will be necessary -- though even for some of those I've had good luck with metal-grip. Carefully clean up any loose or damaged material with a very sharp blade, exposing a clean section of edge/core before setting to work melting stuff on.

You'll need this stuff:

http://www.tognar.com/tognar-p-tex-base ... 0v-us-can/ -- you might already have one or be able to borrow. Don't use a soldering iron.

http://www.tognar.com/metalgrip-repair- ... -or-black/ -- melt in with the iron being sure to cover all the metal and exposed base -- go thin, leave plenty of room for the real ptex. Let this stuff set really well, at least 30 minutes. Scrape any mistakes that protrude above the base surface before covering with ptex.

http://www.tognar.com/p-tex-base-repair ... -or-black/ - *cut to approximate size/shape before trying to melt into gouge*. Some pictures and some advice in the Tognar catalog suggest just using the iron to melt what you need off the ribbon. That never works well in my experience.

Wait a half hour, scrape and flatten just like a candle repair.
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